I took a staycation in Scotland's 'most underrated city' – here's my verdict

Dundee has long had a problem with putting all its eggs in one tourist basket. Until recently it was known as the ‘City of Discovery’, reducing it to a single maritime attraction. Perhaps realising this, the tourist strapline now is ‘One City, Many Discoveries’ and it’s an apt moniker with such a wealth of attractions.

The still brilliant RRS Discovery is a world-class attraction. If you’ve already toured this remarkable vessel, which spirited both Scott and Shackleton off to Antarctica, then what about the HMS Unicorn? Not only is this 200-year-old wonder Scotland’s oldest warship, she is one of the world’s oldest, a truly unique floating treasure. Visiting is life-affirmingly hands-on as you can ramble all over the world’s third oldest warship, even deep into the bowels of the ship. 

(Image: Robin McKelvie) The staff are always keen to add even more colour to exhibits that tell tall tales of visiting royals and even the only ever surrender, in 1945, of a submarine to a Georgian warship. Matthew Bellhouse Moran, who helped steer the Unicorn’s direction until this year, explained:

“She is unique as she has never been rebuilt or sunk. The Unicorn, though, faces an existential crisis so we have been working hard to secure funding for our massive project, which will lift her into protective dry dock and create a much improved visitor experience. The Unicorn is relying on its very welcome visitors and donations to keep this wonderful ship alive for future generations to enjoy and learn from.”

(Image: Robin McKelvie) Then there is the V&A Dundee. Critics may snipe it has not had the same seismic effect on Dundee as the Guggenheim has had on Bilbao, but it is a truly world-class building. Revisiting, I’m impressed they’ve listened to visitor feedback. Their infectiously enthusiastic Jennie Patterson says: “We really took into account what some visitors said and we’ve added a free temporary exhibition to go with the free Scottish Design Museum. On the ground floor we’ve turned the café space into exhibits to show how the building of the museum itself ties into the heritage of Scottish design and a space where people can just relax”.

The V&A is a different beast to the one I found on its opening day. The tweaks Jennie flags up do help make more out of the building and the paid for temporary exhibitions continue to be well curated with a wow factor. Until May (when Garden Futures opens) all the exhibitions, including the temporary ones, are free. Don’t miss the revamped waterfront outside with its urban beach, gardens and outdoor sculpture.

Those discoveries keep on coming. How about the seriously creative Dundee Contemporary Arts, or Verdant Works, an award-winning museum housed in an old jute mill that taps into the tradition? The Dundee Science Centre is a window into a city bursting with universities and creativity, the home of Grand Theft Auto and Minecraft. On a cultural level the Caird Hall is one of Scotland’s grandest venues and the Dundee Rep Theatre is superb. 

The McManus: Dundee’s Art Gallery and Museum is essential, brilliantly tracing the story of the city and highlighting its shipbuilding and trade glory days. Dundee is not the sort of place to rest on its laurels, however, with a burning pride and can-do attitude that makes projects happen. The transforming waterfront is the most striking example. A decade ago it was a spiderweb of inaccessibility and drab architecture. Now a walk and cycle route sweeps along the banks of the Tay (you can hire bikes near the V&A) and there is even an ‘urban beach’ for kids. 

Slessor Park has become a venue not just for food trucks but outdoor gigs in summer. Ever on the look out for events, the city hosted the wildly successful BBC Big Weekend in 2023 and in July Dundonian DJ Hannah Laing is staging her own 15,000-fan festival in Camperdown Park. In Slessor Gardens the Discovery Festival is back this summer with Ocean Colour Scene headlining.

(Image: Robin McKelvie) If you want to dig deeper into Dundee’s past hook up with Dark Dundee Tours. Stewart Heaton and Louise Murphy are a brilliant double act who bring the less salubrious sides of the city alive with stories of dastardly deeds and dodgy dealings. They’ve carved a niche, securing the keys for access to the vaulting Steeple Church for epic views of Dundee and also for ghoulish access to The Howff cemetery by night. Not many cities are as lucky to have a seaside suburb like Broughty Ferry.

Not content with a striking castle, sweeping beachfront and a slew of tempting cafes, bars and restaurants (Pizza Revolution and its Neapolitan pizzas are excellent with the hands-on brothers running it typical of the local energy), this retreat also these days is the departure point for Saltdog Marine. It’s quite something bashing across the Tay and out into the North Sea in search of curious seals and frolicking dolphins, with the skyline of Dundee sweeping across the background.

Dundee these days doesn’t really need Broughty Ferry to cement its appeal; not when it keeps powering on with new attractions. Next in the pipeline is the Scottish home of Cornwall’s wildly successful Eden Project. It will soon take shape on Dundee’s resurrected waterfront, further cementing Dundee’s well-deserved place on the tourist map. It may not be too long before room rates start to soar at local hotels and restaurants bump up the prices, so now is the perfect time to head to the banks of the famously silvery Tay and explore Scotland’s most underrated city.
 

BED DOWN IN DUNDEE

Hotel Indigo Dundee

(Image: Robin McKelvie) Simply Dundee’s best boutique hotel is crafted around a brilliantly revamped old jute mill. This building at risk was saved and transformed into an urban cool space, and the new £1m, Eighteen22 bar opened in 2024, cementing its already burgeoning reputation. Only ten minute walk into the centre, but still far out enough for a quiet sleep.
 ihg.com/hotelindigo

Staybridge Suites Dundee

Joined at the hip with Hotel Indigo Dundee, these apartments are ideal for a weekend break, or longer stay, as they have a well-equipped kitchenette and lashings of comfortable space. 

There is an open and airy communal area, too, where you can secure supplies.
 ihg.com/staybridge

Malmaison Dundee

The city’s original boutique hotel is not quite as slick as it used to be but the sweeping wrought-iron staircase and towering dome of this Victorian dame are worth staying for alone. The location is ideal for visitors, too, as it’s just across from the V&A Dundee. 
It serves excellent breakfasts too.
 malmaison.com

FOODIE DUNDEE

Eastfield

This is a hipster café/restaurant with a real, local produce beating heart on trendy Perth Road. Settle into the Scandi Scot surrounds – think lots of smooth wood and exposed stone – for the likes of Scottish lamb slow cooked with fennel and spring onion. 

The ultra-local poached quince on my visit came from the owner’s family garden. Enjoy superb coffee from Glen Lyon Coffee Roasters.
 instagram.com/eastfield_dundee

Gallery 48

This combination of art gallery and creative hub also paints a rich palette of delicious tapas and perfectly curated Spanish wines, served by the glass. It’s oh so very new Dundee!

Tuck into duck and hoisin croquettes, spicy patatas bravas and sweeping cured meat boards with a glass of bone-dry Albarino as you admire the striking art and take the pulse of Dundee’s art scene.
 gallery48.co.uk

Tatha Bar & Kitchen

This spectacular space with floor to ceiling glass in the V&A Dundee boasts epic views out over the silvery Tay. It is based around more of a self-service style set-up these days, but look out for specials to match the temporary exhibitions. The Japanese afternoon tea to time with the Kimono exhibition last year was a shining example with gyoza, prawn tempura and matcha cakes alongside the scones topped with Dundee’s gift to the preserves world – marmalade.
 vam.ac.uk