WineInk: A wine writer’s legacy

It is always sad when we hear news that someone whose work impacted our lives has reached the end of their days on this earth. Such was the case this past weekend, when I learned that esteemed wine writer James Laube had passed. I did not know him; our paths never crossed, but over the years, his life’s work had a notable influence on me, as it had with so many others in the world of wine who read his writings.  

James Laube, known as Jim in the industry, had been with Wine Spectator as a writer and taster over four decades prior to his passing following a short illness at the age of 73. Before his retirement in 2019, he had been a senior editor and Napa Bureau chief for the magazine at a time when California wine, in general, and the Napa Valley, in particular, was enjoying a rapid rise. I remember having a copy of the James Beard Award winning book, “Wine Spectator’s California Wine,” that Laube had authored around the turn of the century. It was a source for both information and inspiration. Though outdated now, a quarter century later, it still has a place as a snapshot of an exciting era in one of the world’s most significant wine regions.

In an article celebrating Laube’s contributions in Wine Spectator, his former colleague and boss Marvin R. Shanken, editor and publisher of Wine Spectator since 1979, wrote: “California wine would not be what it is without James Laube. I hired him at a young age, but he was already years ahead of others when it came to knowledge and understanding of California wine. For more than 30 years, we worked together and traveled the world together. His impact on California Cabernet, in particular, was incredible.”

As I said, sad to hear the news.

But it got me to thinking about what a joy it is to have the opportunity to write about wine each week in this space and the pleasure I get from reading other writers who also have a passion for the subject.

Wine is a microcosm of the world we live in. It is an agricultural product, which is influenced by the changes in climate that affect us and all things. It is a commodity that is impacted by inflation and supply-change issues that are a part of our current economic landscape — not to mention the tariff threats that have been on the minds of so many in the industry. Wine is subject to the same global sociological impacts that challenge all industries. But wine also has the power to unite. It provides a respite from the pressures that are part of our lives, brings us pleasure, and takes us someplace in a glass and, in so doing, makes our days just a bit better.

Next to drinking and writing about wine, one of my favorite things to do in life is to read about wine. On a near daily basis, I will consume information on the subject and follow breaking news. My wine reading diet includes the usual suspects, like the aforementioned Wine Spectator and Wine Enthusiast — both signature consumer publications in the space. I also keep up with the pages of the British wine magazine, Decanter, which often provides a different take on the world’s wine, particularly European wines.

And then there are the wine experts whose insights appear in major newspapers and online in a variety of blogs. I try not to miss The New York Times’ wine critic Eric Asimov, who for the past 20-plus years, has written a distinct and diverse column on a regular basis for the paper of record. Asimov has a unique position in the wine world but always writes with the reader in mind. His wine recommendations can be hard to find when one leaves the rarified air of New York City specialty shops, but the suggestions are usually spot on.

Another columnist I read religiously is Lettie Teague, who has been a wine columnist for the Wall Street Journal since April 2010. Teague previously was with Food & Wine Magazine and was a regular at the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen. She writes for a broad group of consumers and readers, and her work is always informative with a point of view without being too high brow for casual fans of wine.

Of course, like all forms of writing, the digital wine space has exploded. There are a number of sites that offer great writing and unique perspectives, with jancisrobinson.com being the leader of the pack. The iconic British wine writer has, over the last five years, created an entire new genre of wine coverage and brings a personal touch and an impeccable pedigree to the site. If you go one place online for wine knowledge, this should be it.

Finally, my Sunday nights are often improved when I receive an email from Vinography.com. Published by Alder Yarrow, who grew up in Aspen and once sold the Aspen Times Weekly as a youth, his blog features a listing of weekly wine news stories and opinions that have caught his eye. The collection helps keep readers up to date with what is happening in the industry and in vineyards around the globe.

We will miss the contributions and writings of James Laube. But he left a legacy for the next generation of wine writers.