Editor’s note: Chris Bartlett contributed to this column.
Perched atop an expansive hilltop of resplendent rolling greens and thickly wooded slopes that gently hug then rise above the Potomac River, the Lansdowne Resort, https://lansdowneresort.com, is a tranquil place to step away from life’s hectic, daily demands, and get away from it all. It’s a well-deserved respite after winter’s cabin fever. Yes, spring has sprung!
Feed your curiosity and need to experience new ways to relax, play, rejuvenate and savor the glorious flavors, all this nestled near historic Leesburg, Va., in Loudoun County, known as the state’s wine country.
The area can keep wine aficionados busy with more than 50 wineries and tasting rooms. Photographers can capture the scenery from the panoramic hillside vineyards. Though we didn’t have time to delve too deeply into wine sampling, we can tell you that one winery estate after another, seemingly without end, left us breathless.
And when you’ve had enough rest and relaxation, Washington, D.C., is 30 miles away, perfect for a day trip, plus the resort is 12 miles from Dulles Airport.
From specialty curated wine dinners such as the upcoming Earth Day celebration on April 22 (this culinary experience is billed as “The Purest Meal You’ll Ever Enjoy,” bit.ly/4hHru8C) to relaxing the day away at Spa Minerale or strolling the wooded trails that run along the Potomac, we discovered how much diverse fun the varied activities are.
There’s tennis, pickleball, indoor and outdoor pools with private cabanas. The spa is an oasis for pampering yourself with massages, facials, an herbal detox plus other treatments that will leave you less stressed.
Three golf courses (45 holes) with the backdrop of the Potomac River Valley are a golfer’s playground. Choose from the Greg Norman Course, Robert Trent Jones Jr. Course or the 9-hole Greg Norman Sharkbite course, perfect for junior players.
Piedmont’s, overlooking the Greg Norman golf course and Potomac River, was the first meal we had upon arrival at lunch time. The weather was perfect to dine on the terrace, however the thought of sitting indoors by the enticing floor-to-ceiling stone fireplace was tempting.
The Chesapeake Crab Cake Sliders is perfect for an appetizer for three people or as an entrée for one. Chock full of lump crab meat, it is served on a toasted brioche roll with lettuce, tomato and a remoulade with just enough kick.
The Tiger Steak Sandwich has a generous amount of marinated steak tips, cooked to perfection, caramelized onion, arugula and a house-made steak sauce that complemented the dish well.
The popular Banh Mi Vietnamese sandwich is tangy, crunchy, savory with a slight touch of sweetness and spice, and Piedmont’s version has hoisin-glazed pork belly, pickled vegetables, cucumber, jalapeno and sriracha mayo. Those flavors and textures are married well.
Coton & Rye pays homage to the Coton & Rye farm property that in the late 1700s stood on the land that the resort was built on. Rye was the main crop.
The information about the restaurant says: “Today, this agricultural heritage is honored with comforting tavern fare prepared from Old Dominion recipes made with freshly picked ingredients sourced from local farms. Virginia-crafted beer, wine and spirits toast our time-honored legacy.”
A generous serving of the Mediterranean Hummus was the starter; feta-olive tapenade topped the hummus, and alongside are cucumbers, sweet peppers, carrots and warm naan for dipping. In the mood for pasta, the Pan Seared Lemon Thyme Chicken is served with artichokes, blistered tomatoes with angel hair.
The Miso Glazed salmon with bok choy, mushrooms, carrots and steamed rice was our other entrée, and what a delicious choice it was.
Rather than dessert and coffee, I opted for a mocktail, the Espresso Martini, a nitro-charged blend producing aromas of sweet coffee alongside notes of vanilla and mocha with a silky-smooth finish.
Wanting to experience Piedmont’s for dinner and finally enjoy eating by that fireplace, a reservation was made. The spinach and artichoke dip is served warm, golden brown in a small crock; it’s a rich and creamy, indulgent starter that’s enough to share.
The pan roasted Chilean Sea Bass accompaniment of lobster mashed potatoes caught my attention, a first time seeing this take on the comfort side dish. Grilled asparagus, blistered vine tomatoes and citrus beurre blanc completed this dish. And, the sea bass, the real star, was cooked to perfection.
The other entrée, Seafood Carbonara, is a twist on the classic. The smoky pancetta melded well with the succulent pieces of lobster and lump crab.
The sweet ending was shared…chocolate layer cake, moist chocolate cake with layers of chocolate cream then topped with a bittersweet ganache. Fresh berries crowned this jewel of a dessert, plus a dollop of fresh whipped cream and chocolate shavings added to the presentation.
Breakfasts were at the resort’s Riverside Hearth. The buffet has several stations with endless options. We marveled at the interactive-exhibition kitchen, where chefs and line cooks are openly showcasing their craft while preparing made-to-order items.
Once spring arrives, the seasonal outlets open. Harmony Garden boasts terrace seating so guests can enjoy the scenery, craft cocktails, lite fare and live music on Fridays. Enjoy tropical drinks and lite bites at Current’s Pool & Grill. Golfers, check out Turnberry’s located between the 9th and 10th holes on the Greg Norman course, serving sit-down fare and grab-and-go items.
The resort’s Executive Chef Chris Ferrier heads up the food venues. I had the opportunity to watch him prepare one of his seasonal dishes, Butternut Squash Risotto. See it at https://youtu.be/7o4WClJP0ho. For the recipe, visit bit.ly/41VKIml.
After a few days of invigorating morning trail walks, followed by midday health club sessions, afternoon spa service visits and delicious dinners on property, we took time both to get better acquainted with nearby Leesburg and the farther rolling hills that adorn Loudoun County.
Leesburg, the quaint, charming, picturesque city and county seat, is perfect for shopping at unique boutiques, visiting historical and cultural attractions, enjoying the colonial-era architecture and (of course!) grazing and dining.
King Street in Leesburg stands out as the epicenter of town, with retail, commerce and food places occupying most storefronts along the way. Both BKD bagels and Cowbell Kitchen check the box for a fresh, delicious breakfast or lunch. We chose bagel sandwiches at the former, and our post-breakfast sweet treat at the latter.
A short walk down the hill off King Street, we delightedly found ourselves at Mom’s Apple Pie Bakery. It is an institution in northern Virginia with three locations after having been started by farmers in the family kitchen with the installation of a convection oven back in 1981. This bakery goes way beyond its’ namesake…chocolate pecan, sour cherry crumb, bourbon walnut, lemon chess, coconut cream…the list is long and endlessly tempting!
Adults and kids will enjoy a visit to Sunflower Shack, https://sunflowershack.com, with the huge selection of nostalgic candy and soda. Some flavors of soda are quite odd…mustard, cucumber, cotton candy, bubble gum? With dozens to choose from, you’re bound to find one that you’ll be curious to try.
Our one dinner outside the resort had to be at The Conche, https://www.the-conche.com, despite downtown Leesburg having several other local all-stars from which to choose. The chocolate-centric restaurant was a must for this chocoholic.
Of course, there are decadent chocolate desserts, however Chef Tiptur and his team weave chocolate into many of the savory dishes. We began the chocolate extravaganza with The Conche Signature Caesar Salad (grilled romaine, house marinated heirloom cherry tomatoes, Parmesan croutons, cocoa nib brittle shards, cocoa-Infused cured egg yolk).
To continue on the chocolate theme, it was the Conche Burger (braised beef short ribs, bacon, caramelized shallot jam, sharp Vermont cheddar, creamed spinach, tomato, chocolate BBQ sauce, secret sauce), then crispy calamari (cocoa beer batter, Fresno pepper aioli, pickled radish).
And to really indulge with chocolate, for dessert we had Manjari (single origin 64% Madagascar chocolate mousse filled with vanilla crème brulee, dark chocolate brownie, chocolate pearls, salted caramel ice cream).
I must admit, one of the dishes I tried didn’t incorporate chocolate: cheddar grilled cheese and creamy tomato soup. The chef knows the flavor profiles that will and won’t work with chocolate. Interestingly, though many of the cocoa inclusions seem somewhat outlandish, it all really works well together.
I know we’ll be returning to Leesburg and Lansdowne Resort now that we know this gem has so much to see and explore. For more about Leesburg and Loudoun County, visit https://leesburgva.gov and https://visitloudoun.org.
Stephen Fries is professor emeritus and former coordinator of the Hospitality Management Programs at Gateway Community College in New Haven, Conn. He has been a food and culinary travel columnist for the past 17 years and is co-founder of and host of “Worth Tasting,” a culinary walking tour of downtown New Haven, and three-day culinary adventures around the U.S. He is a board member of the International Association of Culinary Professionals. Email him at Stephen@stephenfries.com. For more, go to stephenfries.com.
