Australian wine’s ability to reinvent itself is hugely impressive. The latest in a long line of shifts is an exciting move to make more crisp, aromatic, refreshing whites, led by semillon and riesling, plus the likes of lesser-known Mediterranean grape varieties including Italy’s fiano.
The reds have taken a tad longer to acquire brighter, lighter personas but I was gobsmacked by the latest syrah vintages, with their restrained, elegant, floral, fruit-first styles, so very different from the alcoholic, blood, guts and thunder shiraz of old. Equally, the latest crop of pinot noir, gamay and cabernet franc are all moving in the right direction, with a special shout-out to Italy’s sangiovese.
Initially it was climate change, with hotter, drier vintages, that encouraged Aussie winemakers to dial
