WineInk: Barolo and Barbaresco come to America

Take a look at any number of Aspen wine lists, especially those in Italian hotspots like the long-loved Ellina and the newly opened Aosta Ristorante and Sant Ambroeus, and you’ll find that the local wine community is smitten with the nebbiolo grape. The Barolo and Barbaresco wines made from the grape hold a special place — and a large number of pages — on our local lists.

Next week on March 25 in Austin, Texas, many of the producers (over 150) and the wines (over 300) that are on those lists will be showcased as the 2021 Barolo DOCG and 2022 Barbaresco DOCG vintages, along with previous vintages. They will be poured by the Consorzio di Tutela Barolo Barbaresco Alba Langhe e Dogliani at the fourth edition of the Barolo & Barbaresco World Opening (BBWO). The tasting, for trade, media, and consumers, is touted as the largest collection of the wines produced in the region and marks a unique opportunity for lovers of what are known as the “king and qQueen” of Italian wines to sample the wares of a multitude of producers.

Sergio Germano is the new president of the Consorzio, the organization that represents the producers in the region, and he is enthusiastic about the gathering.  

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“This isn’t just a tasting,” he said about the event. “It’s a rare opportunity to witness the passion, dedication, and craftsmanship behind every bottle. And this is the mission of our Consorzio: To strengthen the bond between our wines and those who value their authenticity, history, and appeal.”

He should know, as he is a fourth-generation wine producer in the region himself. Sergio is the “big boss” of the family-run winery Ettore Germano, which is situated in Cerretta on one of the largest cru vineyards in Serralunga d’Alba. In addition to producing Barolo, the family is also well known for the white wine varieties it grows and sells under the Alta Langa label.

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Barolo and Barbaresco are the best known — and the signature wines — of the Piedmont wine region of northwest Italy, which lies about 30 miles south of the city of Turin. While both wines are made from nebbiolo and are known for their structure, depth, complexity, and ability to age, there are subtle but significant differences between the wines. Both wines are named for the DOCG regions (Denomination of Controlled and Guaranteed Origin, the highest official ranking of Italian wines) from which they are grown. And, though relatively close geographically, they feature different terroirs.

The larger Barolo appellation consists of 11 villages, or communes, in hills of the Langhe region. It is noted for vineyards that sit higher up on the hillsides, where they are subject to the warmth of the summer sun, followed by cool nights and large temperature drops. The cooling effect allows a slow ripening process as the growing season progresses. The wines are the products of soils that are rich in calcareous marl (clay and lime) limestone and sand. In Barbaresco’s four communes, the vineyards are lower in the valley, and the conditions are a bit milder. The soils, though, can be a little higher in nutrients and the sunlight a little more prevalent.

There are also differences in the aging requirements for the wines with Barolos mandated to undergo a minimum of 36 months of aging before their release with at least 18 months spent in wood barrels. Barbaresco requires less aging — 24 months with at least nine months in wooden barrels. The result is that Barbaresco is often a softer, more approachable wine with a little lighter color and flavor profile than the more powerful wines of Barolo. Which is better depends on the palate of the taster.

But just as significant is the role of the farmers and winemakers who produce these wines. There is a long history of “modernists vs traditionalists” winemakers in the region, and the individual wines often reflect the skills and aspirations of the artisan producers themselves.  

Sergio describes the synergy between these factors like this: “Barolo and Barbaresco are the result of an extraordinary harmony between an ‘aristocratic’ and highly selective grape variety like Nebbiolo — difficult to cultivate — and a territory that enhances its organoleptic characteristics, giving it a unique identity. Lastly, producers further elevate its diverse expressions through their dedicated work in both the vineyards and the cellars.” He continued, “The Langhe region is home to countless small, family-run wineries, each driven by a deep passion for their vineyards and an unwavering commitment to quality.”

It is this passion that Sergio hopes to share with those who attend the Barolo & Barbaresco World Opening in Austin.

“For decades, American wine lovers have embraced Barolo and Barbaresco not only for their unique sense of place, but also for their limited production and unmistakable character,” he said. “This deep appreciation has fostered a lasting bond between our wines and the U.S. market, further strengthened by the many American visitors who travel to the Langhe to experience our wines, cuisine, and culture firsthand.”

While the event is just next week, there are direct flights from Aspen to Austin on American and connections on United. Tickets are still available at http://www.eventbrite.com/e/barolo-barbaresco-world-opening-austin-2025-tickets-1111971660169 for consumers as of this writing.

It is the next best thing to a trip to Italy.