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Taking A Quick, Tasty Trip To One Of The West Coast’s Oldest Cities

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No, we’re not talking about San Francisco! The picturesque city of Astoria, Ore., was settled in 1811, named for fur trading magnate John Jacob Astor. These days, it draws visitors to its vibrant waterfront and a charming downtown that’s fun to explore on foot. Let’s look around.

Checking in on the pier

During a recent weekend break from a month-long gig volunteering at Cape Disappointment State Park’s Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center, my husband and I headed down the road and across the vast Columbia River to the Big City, aka Astoria, Ore.

This deepwater port is especially bustling this time of year with the steady stream of river cruises heading up and down the river that brought Lewis and Clark out west back 1805.

Being big fans of the Columbia, we were thrilled to check into the newly renovated Cannery Pier Hotel and Spa, which — obviously — sits on a pier over the river. All the rooms enjoy spectacular views framed by the impressive four-mile Astoria–Megler Bridge. Your room key comes with a copy of the daily shipping report, so you can keep track of those massive cargo ships churning through the water toward Portland or out to the Pacific. Yes, there are binoculars available if you want to get a closer look.

Once settled into our ultra-comfy digs, we made plans to head downtown on the cruiser bikes the hotel has for guests. There’s also a vintage Rambler and driver that’ll take you where you want to go in retro style in the evening hours. Very cool.

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Day drinking

Since 2013, Pilot House Distilling has been making a big splash with its award-winning lineup of vodka, gin, tequila and single malts. The team recently expanded its reach by introducing a lineup of canned cocktails.

But it was beer that brought us to this handsome tasting room, a generous offer for a free flight if you picked up and disposed of any wayward labels from Pilot House’s big sis, Buoy Beer Company. That mega-popular maker of exceptional beer recently experienced a huge setback when a portion of its facility fell into the Columbia. Giving a whole new meaning to going into the drink.

But, seriously, because I don’t want to diminish the hardship suffered by the company and the hard-working employees of Buoy who are on standby, waiting to find out how to fix the catastrophic fail. Let’s raise a glass to getting everything fully back on track soon. A popup Buoy Beer pub just opened at the Astoria Food Hub and that’s a good start.

In the meantime, there’s no shortage of outstanding craft beer producers within walking distance after you’ve whet the old whistle at Pilot House. Head across the street to Reach Break Brewing and its resident food carts or down the block to the always buzzy Fort George Brewery. Down toward the river, Astoria Brewery Company draws big crowds for its pub fare and outdoor seating. Gotta love their mission statement: We make simple beers for complex people.

Fish and chips worth the wait

While lining up for the classic combo served out of an old working boat, the seasoned customer in front of me let me know that Oprah had visited a few years ago and made the Bowpicker even more famous than it already was when it landed on her list of the Best Thing to Eat in Every State. Thus the steady stream of fans waiting to get their fix of locally caught albacore dipped in a secret beer batter.

Fortunately, the line moves swiftly thanks to the crack team working in the teeniest space imaginable. The star attraction lived up to the hype, chunky nuggets fried crispy gold, not greasy, almost tempura light-like. Request a side of cocktail sauce alongside the tartar. You’ll find hot pepper sauce and malt vinegar sit near the cash register. Picnic tables are across the street.

If we’d had more time and tummy space, we’d have hit up South Bay Wild for ceviche, fish tacos and Seafood Fry Bread. Next time!

Something sweet

After some serious retail therapy, that cookie craving set in and I was able to sneak into the highly recommended Blue Scorcher Bakery before its late afternoon closing.

This employee-owned cooperative features a pastry case full of sweet and savory treats and a warm welcome. Like all the places we visited in Astoria, this place had a welcoming vibe.

Can’t go wrong with the chocolate-ginger cookie or one of those rich brownies, both vegan, though you’d never guess that when tasting.

The Naked Lemon is another excellent spot to swing into for wonderful cookies, which are also sold at the Astoria Coffeehouse and Bistro.

Dinner at Fedé Trattoria

Husband and wife team Faith Davenport and Sean Hammond have decades of restaurant experience between them and it shines at this cozy dining room on the pier.

Everything’s scratch-made and locally sourced, prepared and plated with care. Our party of four thoroughly enjoyed a seafood-centric feast of linguine with sweet Oregon shrimp, Willipa Bay clams tangled up in bucatini, mussels steamed in white wine and saffron, followed up by an exceptional sablefish swimming in a deeply flavored tomato sauce. Stellar supporting players included a simple and perfectly dressed arugula salad and the meatiest roasted mushrooms.

Because the restaurant doesn’t take reservations, your best bet is to go early or later or leave your name and cell number and head over to Inferno Lounge for an aperitif.

Spectacular sunset

Even after a fun nightcap at Blaylock’s Whiskey Bar, we easily made it back to the hotel in time to catch the best sunset this year. Thank goodness for those long summer nights. What a fun, filling day!

Before leaving Astoria the next morning, we made one final stop and you might even say we saved the best for last. Josephson’s Smokehouse has some of the most incredible alder wood-kissed seafood I’ve ever experienced. And those sweet basil lox? The best!

Thanks to the helpful counter crew, I learned that it’s possible to order some of these succulent savories online. That’s so going to happen in my near future.

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